Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a stable antioxidant with the ability to improve skin in multiple ways. It helps with skin brightening, strengthening barrier function, regulating oil production, fighting free radicals, reducing fine lines & wrinkles, reducing redness & uneven skin tone, and reducing the appearance of pores.

Niacinamide is one of the most thoroughly studied skincare ingredients, with various studies demonstrating its efficacy at 4-5% in skincare. In addition to the effects above it can also increase synthesis of fatty components of the skin which keep skin hydrated and plump looking.

In a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face, study a moisturizer containing 5% niacinamide was well tolerated by the skin and provided significant improvements versus control in: fine lines/wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, texture, and red blotchiness.

In another study on 50 female subjects with clinical signs of facial photoaging (fine lines and wrinkles, poor texture, and hyperpigmented spots) a 5% niacinamide cream was applied to half of the face and its vehicle control to the other half twice daily for 12 weeks (double blind, left-right randomized). Results: reductions in fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing). In addition, elasticity (as measured via cutometry) was improved.

An 8 week study on 30 Japanese women with eye are wrinkles using a 4% niacinamide cream resulted in marked and moderate improvement in 64% of the subjects with a significant difference as compared with the control site (P < 0.001).

Topical application of nicotinamide (aka niacinamide) increased ceramide and free fatty acid levels in the stratum corneum, and decreased transepidermal water loss in dry skin.

Sources:

Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004

Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005

Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide. J Dermatol. 2008

Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000