Ingredient Guide

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) aka L Ascorbic Acid: protects against photo-aging, increases collagen production, stabilizes collagen fibers, decreases collagen degradation, decreases melanin formation reducing pigmentation, neutralizes free-radicals, protects against oxidative damage, & replenishes Vitamin E. Ascorbic Acid is the most studied & most proven form of vitamin c used in topical skincare.

There are many forms of vitamin C but Ascorbic Acid is the one with the most study and best results in human skin. That’s because it’s the most plentiful antioxidant in human skin and our skin can’t make collagen without it. Ascorbic acid is the form of vitamin C that our skin instantly recognizes and puts to work.

Vitamin C is the only antioxidant that can reverse sun damage by increasing collagen production, and prevent future damage by neutralizing free radicals. Vitamin C delivers antioxidative, photoprotective, antiaging, and antipigmentary effects

Applying ascorbic acid prior to sunscreen can help boost sunscreen’s efficacy. In one study, application of 10% topical Ascorbic Acid showed statistical reduction of UVB-induced redness & irritation by 52% and sunburn cell formation by 40-60%.

Clinical studies have shown that the topical use of Vit. C increases collagen production in young as well as aged human skin

In vivo human study shows that when formulated correctly (pH 3.2-3.5) it penetrates skin easily, protects from UV damage, increases collagen  synthesis and reduces pigmentation.

Vitamins C and E inhibit the ultraviolet (UV) damage of erythema, sunburn, and tanning as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer. Both are highly effective depigmenting agents. Topical vitamin C also increases collagen synthesis in both young and old fibroblasts. Because vitamin C regenerates oxidized vitamin E, the combination in a cosmeceutical formulation is synergistic - particularly in UV protection.

Sources:

Photodamage of the skin: protection and reversal with topical antioxidants. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2004

Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007

Antioxidants in dermatology. An Bras Dermatol. 2017

Induction of collagen synthesis by ascorbic acid. A possible mechanism. Arch Dermatol 1987

Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol Surg 2001

Topical Vitamin C in Skin Care. Aesthetic Surgery Journal 1998

Ceramides are fatty lipids that are naturally occurring in our skin and are important for skin barrier function. They’re part of the extracellular matrix that helps keep skin hydrated and keep it looking plump & firm. Ceramides are the most abundant fatty lipid making up about 50% of the extracellular matrix, cholesterol (another fatty lipid) makes up about 25% and fatty acids are about 15%. In human skin there are many different ceramides but they diminish as we age causing skin to lose hydration & plumpness. 

The 3 main ceramides that are commonly used in skincare along with cholesterol in a 3:1 ratio are ceramide EOP, ceramide AP, and ceramide NP and these are the ceramides and the ratio used in our ceramide blend.

In multiple studies, ceramide‐containing formulations were shown to reduce transepidermal water loss, improve stratum corneum structure, and increase stratum corneum lipid content. 

Clinical research indicates that in elderly individuals, topical use of ceramide‐containing formulations of sufficiently high concentration improved hydration and the barrier function of the stratum corneum.

Sources:

The structure, function, and importance of ceramides in skin and their use as therapeutic agents in skin-care products. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 2014

Role of ceramides in barrier function of healthy and diseased skin. American journal of clinical dermatology 2005

Clinical significance of the water retention and barrier function‐improving capabilities of ceramide‐containing formulations: A qualitative review. Journal of Dermatology 2021

The effect of an emollient containing urea, ceramide NP, and lactate on skin barrier structure and function in older people with dry skin. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2016

CoEnzyme Q10 (aka CoQ10 or Ubiquinone) is an antioxidant found naturally in our skin that primarily helps to support cellular energy by increasing ATP production. Our bodies make less CoQ10 as we age and studies show that it can be supplemented with skincare. Basically, it gives skin more energy so it can act like more youthful energized skin.

CoQ10 also neutralizes free radicals which helps keep collagen healthy, and blocks tyrosinase to help fade dark spots & even skin tone. In one study, the use of 1% CoQ10 cream for five months reduced wrinkle score grade observed by a dermatologist.

CoQ10 is a dark yellow oil-soluble powder that has been shown to penetrate into the viable layers of the epidermis and reduce the level of oxidation, a reduction in wrinkle depth following CoQ10 application was also shown. These results indicate that CoQ10 has the efficacy to prevent many of the detrimental effects of photoaging.

Sources:

Aging skin is functionally anaerobic: importance of coenzyme Q10 for anti aging skin care. Biofactors 2008

Coenzyme Q10, a cutaneous antioxidant and energizer. Biofactors 1999

Mechanisms of inhibitory effects of CoQ10 on UVB-induced wrinkle formation in vitro and in vivo. Biofactors 2008

Topical treatment with coenzyme Q10-containing formulas improves skin's Q10 level and provides antioxidative effects. Biofactors 2015

Ferulic Acid is an antioxidant that protects against UV damage & cell death, and reduces redness & inflammation. It stabilizes & enhances efficacy of Vitamin C & E. Scavenges free radicals and inhibits the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). May help prevent development of fine lines & wrinkles. Topical ferulic acid has been shown to improve skin hydration, elasticity, texture, and density.

Ferulic acid is supported by studies as an effective antioxidant for skincare, particularly in anti-aging and photoprotection. It's often found in concentrations of 0.5% in serums and can improve skin's appearance, reduce erythema, and enhance antioxidant protection when combined with other ingredients like vitamin c and E.

Studies show that ferulic acid can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. 


Ferulic acid helps stabilize vitamin C (ascorbic acid) in skincare formulations, preventing its degradation and prolonging its effectiveness.


Sources:

The use of topical ferulic acid in treating cutaneous conditions: a systematic review. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 2023

Ferulic Acid Use for Skin Applications: A Systematic Review. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2025

Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. J Invest Dermatol 2005 

Glycerin is a highly effective humectant used to hydrate and moisturize the skin. It holds water to the surface of the skin, helping to keep the outer layer hydrated and preventing dryness. Glycerin is less buzzy than hyaluronic acid but it’s a workhorse of topical skincare for good reason. 

Glycerin keeps the skin looking hydrated and plump, it helps to soften and smooth the skin, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Glycerin can strengthen the skin's natural barrier, protecting it from external irritants and preventing moisture loss.

Sources:

Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions. Br J Dermatol 2008

Moisture retention of glycerin solutions with various concentrations: a comparative study. Sci Rep 2022

 

Green Tea Extract is rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. When used topically, it offers various benefits, including protection against UV damage, anti-aging effects, and soothing properties for irritated skin. 

In vitro and animal studies have shown that topical application of green tea polyphenols can reduce UV-induced skin damage and lipid peroxidation. Studies have also shown that green tea extract can decrease the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers(CPDs), which are a type of DNA damage caused by UV radiation. 

Green tea extract can help reduce the signs of aging by neutralizing free radicals and protecting against collagen degradation. Studies suggest that green tea extract can increase collagen production in the skin. 

A small study showed that a combination of topical and oral green tea improved skin elasticity in women.. 

Green tea extract has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated or sensitive skin. 

Sources:

Green Tea Polyphenols Provide Photoprotection, Increase Microcirculation, and Modulate Skin Properties of Women. The Journal of Nutrition 2011

A comparison of the effects of topical green tea and lotus on facial sebum control in healthy humans. Hippokratia. 2013

Green Tea Linked To Skin Cell Rejuvenation. Science Daily 2003

Green tea in dermatology. Skinmed 2012

Hyaluronic Acid is a naturally occurring substance in the body, primarily found in skin, eyes, and joints, that plays a crucial role in maintaining hydration and providing lubrication. It's a humectant, meaning it attracts and holds water, helping to keep tissues moisturized and plump. 

Hyaluronic Acid has been extensively studied and shown to be effective in enhancing skin hydration and temporarily reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. 

Studies indicate that hyaluronic acid can significantly increase skin hydration, improve skin smoothness and plumpness, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is also well-tolerated, with minimal irritation reported in studies. 

Sources:

Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment.

Efficacy Evaluation of a Topical Hyaluronic Acid Serum in Facial Photoaging. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb). 2021

Lactic acid is a member of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family of exfoliants. Alpha Hydroxy Acids are chemical exfoliants that work by loosening bonds between dead skin cells, promoting shedding of dead skin cells and revealing brighter, smoother skin. Lactic acid can improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, help fade dark spots, and hydrate the skin. It also has antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, making it beneficial for acne-prone skin and potentially protecting against environmental damage. 

Lactic acid is gentler on the skin than it’s cousin Glycolic Acid because it’s a larger molecule, but when formulated at a pH below 4.0 it penetrates the skin and has been shown to increase ceramide production in the skin.

Studies have shown that lactic acid, particularly in higher concentrations (10%), can lead to increased epidermal and dermal thickness, improving skin firmness and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. 

Lactic acid can help fade dark spots and even out skin tone by promoting cell turnover and reducing melanin production. It’s also a humectant, meaning it attracts and retains moisture in the skin, contributing to improved hydration. In one study comparing Lactic Acid to Glycolic acid, after 22 weeks, treatment glycolic acid  and L-Lactic acid were equally effective on photo damage and sallowness but Lactic Acid was also effective on mottled hyperpigmentation and roughness.

In a study comparing 25% glycolic, lactic, or citric acid, treatment with AHAs caused an approximate 25% increase in skin thickness. The epidermis was thicker and papillary dermal changes included increased thickness, increased acid mucopolysaccharides, improved quality of elastic fibers, and increased density of collagen

Sources:

Effect of lactic acid isomers on keratinocyte ceramide synthesis, stratum corneum lipid levels and stratum corneum barrier function. Arch Dermatol Res. 1996

Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. Arch Dermatol. 1996

Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol 1996

Alpha-hydroxyacids in the treatment of signs of photoaging. Clin Dermatol 1996

Comparative effectiveness of α‐hydroxy acids on skin properties. Int J Cosmet Sci 1996

Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol. 1996

Matrixyl™ 3000 is the brand name of a wrinkle reducing peptide that combines 2 “messenger” or  “signaling” peptides: Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (formerly known as palmitoyl oligopeptide or Pal-GHK) and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7.

These peptides work by sending repair signals to the skin that result in increased collagen production, skin damage repair, and strengthening skin’s supportive elements. Studies have shown ongoing use can lead to a reduction in wrinkle depth. It’s been shown in studies to reverse the signs of aging and target sun damage.

Matrixyl™ 3000 stimulates collagen I, III and VI, fibronectin, elastin and glucosamnoglycans production.

Both peptides that make up Matixyl 3000 have been shown to stimulate collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid production on their own, but when combined the production stimulated was much greater than each acting alone.

In a study on 15 women, a cream containing palmitoyl tripeptide-1 was applied twice

daily for four weeks, leading to statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth and skin roughness.

A blind, randomized clinical study with 28 volunteers twice daily applying cream including the active compound to half their face and one of their forearms and a placebo cream to the other half of the face and other forearm confirmed anti-wrinkle efficacy, reduction of wrinkle depth, volume and density, skin roughness and complexity, as well as a decrease of the area occupied by deep wrinkles, and an increase in skin tone

An in-vitro study showed that palmitoyl oligopeptide stimulates collagen production in a concentration-dependent manner, meaning that better results were achieved when more of the peptide was used.

Sources:

Biologically active peptides: From a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skincare product. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2000

Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-peptide anti-aging topical eye serum. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2023

Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review of the literature. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016

Safety Assessment of Palmitoyl Oligopeptides as Used in Cosmetics. 2012

New Cosmetic or Dermopharmaceutical Topical Use of a Mixture of a Ghk Tripeptide and Gqpr Tetrapeptide Sederma Patent 2012

Collagen stimulating effect of peptide amphiphile C16-KTTKS on human fibroblasts. Molecular Pharmacology 2013

Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics 2017

US patent 2004/0132667 A1

Matrixyl™ Synthe'6 is the brand name of a wrinkle reducing “matrikine-mimetic” peptide (aka Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38) known for its ability to enhance skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Matrixyl™ Synthe'6 works with the natural structure of the skin’s matrix to produce a visible smoothing and lifting effect. It’s been shown in studies to stimulate 6 major constituents of the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM) and the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ)  boosting production of collagen I, III, IV, fibronectin, hyaluronic acid and laminin 5 which provide it’s wrinkle reducing effects that are particularly effective on the forehead and crow’s feet.

Matrixyl™ Synthe’6 also helps to balance the activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), enzymes that can degrade collagen and contribute to skin aging. It’s also been shown to be hydrating by increasing hyaluronic acid production in the skin without being irritating.

In one study, daily application of a face serum containing palmitoyl tetrapeptide-38 for 30 days significantly increased skin hydration, with all 35 volunteers experiencing improvement. Substantial improvements in skin elasticity, roughness (fine lines and wrinkles), and brightness also occurred during the trial.

In another study, 35 female subjects with a mean age of 64 years used a serum containing vitamin C, Vitamin E and Matrixyl Synthe’6 for 56 days. Once-daily use of the serum containing both preventative antioxidants and a matrix-restoring peptide resulted in clinically visible and statistically significant improvements in the signs of aging with smoothing, skin-tone brightening, as well as anti-wrinkle and isotropy restructuring effects, as measured by objective instrumental protocols.

Clinical studies show that, after 2 months daily use using 2% of the active, forehead and crow’s feet wrinkles are visibly smoothed.

Sources:

A Face Serum Containing Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Bakuchiol and a Polyherbal and Vitamin Blend Improves Skin Quality Journal of Cosmetics Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2021

A serum containing vitamins C & E and a matrix‐repair tripeptide reduces facial signs of aging as evidenced by Primos® analysis and frequently repeated auto‐perception. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2020

A comparative study on the anti-wrinkle benefits of an active complex (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Silybum marianum fruit extract, Hyaluronic acid (HA), and Chenopodium quinoa seed extract) Aesthetic Medicine 2023

Niacinamide is a stable antioxidant with the ability to improve skin in multiple ways. It helps with skin brightening, strengthening barrier function, regulating oil production, fighting free radicals, reducing fine lines & wrinkles, reducing redness & uneven skin tone, and reducing the appearance of pores.

Niacinamide is one of the most thoroughly studied skincare ingredients, with various studies demonstrating its efficacy at 4-5% in skincare. In addition to the effects above it can also increase synthesis of fatty components of the skin which keep skin hydrated and plump looking.

In a 12-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face, study a moisturizer containing 5% niacinamide was well tolerated by the skin and provided significant improvements versus control in: fine lines/wrinkles, hyperpigmentation spots, texture, and red blotchiness.

In another study on 50 female subjects with clinical signs of facial photoaging (fine lines and wrinkles, poor texture, and hyperpigmented spots) a 5% niacinamide cream was applied to half of the face and its vehicle control to the other half twice daily for 12 weeks (double blind, left-right randomized). Results: reductions in fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing). In addition, elasticity (as measured via cutometry) was improved.

An 8 week study on 30 Japanese women with eye are wrinkles using a 4% niacinamide cream resulted in marked and moderate improvement in 64% of the subjects with a significant difference as compared with the control site (P < 0.001).

Topical application of nicotinamide (aka niacinamide) increased ceramide and free fatty acid levels in the stratum corneum, and decreased transepidermal water loss in dry skin.

Sources:

Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004

Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005

Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide. J Dermatol. 2008

Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000

Resveratrol is an antioxidant found in grapes and other plants that’s been studied for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti carcinogenic effects when ingested and also when applied topically.

Studies show that it can improve skin elasticity, firmness, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also exhibits antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, potentially protecting against sun damage and other environmental stressors. 

Resveratrol can help soothe irritated skin and potentially aid in conditions like eczema and psoriasis. 

One study found that a nighttime topical antioxidant containing 1% resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin E significantly improved fine lines, wrinkles, firmness, and elasticity in 12 weeks. Ultrasound showed increased skin density and biomarkers revealed an increase in collagen III and hemoxygensase 1 production.

Another study showed that resveratrol can reduce redness and improve skin quality, especially in those with sun-damaged skin. 

In a comparative study, a 1% resveratrol cream was compared to 1% idebenone cream using the standard ORAC test for antioxidant activity. The resveratrol cream was found to have a 17-times-greater antioxidant capacity than the idebenone product.  

Sources:

Evaluation of efficacy and tolerance of a nighttime topical antioxidant containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin e for treatment of mild to moderately photodamaged skin. J Drugs Dermatol 2014

Skin Anti-Aging Benefits of a 2% Resveratrol Emulsion. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2021

The grape antioxidant resveratrol for skin disorders: promise, prospects, and challenges. Arch Biochem Biophys 2011

Resveratrol as a factor preventing skin aging and affecting its regeneration. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2022

Vitamin E is an antioxidant that reduces the damaging effects of sun exposure on the skin, and can help reduce irritation, inflammation & discolorations. Vitamin E has also been shown to stabilize vitamin c.

Research highlighted a synergistic effect between vitamins C and E, meaning they are more effective together than either one alone in protecting against UV damage. 

Sources:

Vitamin E in Human Skin: Functionality and Topical Products. Vitamin E in Health and Disease - Interactions, Diseases and Health Aspects 2021

Interaction of ascorbate and alpha-tocopherol. Ann N Y Acad Sci 1987

UV photoprotection by combination topical antioxidants vitamin C and vitamin E. J Am Acad Dermatol 2003