Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) aka L Ascorbic Acid: protects against photo-aging, increases collagen production, stabilizes collagen fibers, decreases collagen degradation, decreases melanin formation reducing pigmentation, neutralizes free-radicals, protects against oxidative damage, & replenishes Vitamin E. Ascorbic Acid is the most studied & most proven form of vitamin c used in topical skincare.

There are many forms of vitamin C but Ascorbic Acid is the one with the most study and best results in human skin. That’s because it’s the most plentiful antioxidant in human skin and our skin can’t make collagen without it. Ascorbic acid is the form of vitamin C that our skin instantly recognizes and puts to work.

Vitamin C is the only antioxidant that can reverse sun damage by increasing collagen production, and prevent future damage by neutralizing free radicals. Vitamin C delivers antioxidative, photoprotective, antiaging, and antipigmentary effects

Applying ascorbic acid prior to sunscreen can help boost sunscreen’s efficacy. In one study, application of 10% topical Ascorbic Acid showed statistical reduction of UVB-induced redness & irritation by 52% and sunburn cell formation by 40-60%.

Clinical studies have shown that the topical use of Vit. C increases collagen production in young as well as aged human skin

In vivo human study shows that when formulated correctly (pH 3.2-3.5) it penetrates skin easily, protects from UV damage, increases collagen  synthesis and reduces pigmentation.

Vitamins C and E inhibit the ultraviolet (UV) damage of erythema, sunburn, and tanning as well as chronic UV photoaging and skin cancer. Both are highly effective depigmenting agents. Topical vitamin C also increases collagen synthesis in both young and old fibroblasts. Because vitamin C regenerates oxidized vitamin E, the combination in a cosmeceutical formulation is synergistic - particularly in UV protection.

Sources:

Photodamage of the skin: protection and reversal with topical antioxidants. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2004

Interaction of vitamins C and E as better cosmeceuticals. Dermatol Ther. 2007

Antioxidants in dermatology. An Bras Dermatol. 2017

Induction of collagen synthesis by ascorbic acid. A possible mechanism. Arch Dermatol 1987

Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatol Surg 2001

Topical Vitamin C in Skin Care. Aesthetic Surgery Journal 1998